 |
Camellia Society of the |
|
|
Camellia Society of the |
| President | Leslie Zupan |
| 1st Vice President | Mark Lewellen |
| 2nd Vice President | Yoshiko Doherty |
| Recording Secretary | Kitty Ackerman |
| Corresponding Secretary | Alice Davis |
| Treasurer | Kathleen Graham |
| Director at Large | Richard Mohr |
| Director at Large | Bill Miller |
| Director at Large | Bill Ackerman |
| Director at Large | Arthur Maryott |
| Director at Large | Robin Cross |
| Director at Large | Chris Herbstritt |
| Director at Large | Karen Fairchild |
| Director at Large | Randy Kobetich |
| Director at Large | Betty Daubt |
Sunday, July 11 at 10:00 a.m. - CSPV judging school will be at the Arboretum Auditorium. You must join the ACS to participate. ACS $25 single & $27.50 joint Dues will increase on July 1, 2010 to $30 single or joint. Potential novice judges must work as novices at the show on April 10. Judging criteria can be found at Rules_&_Regulations Governing Procedures & Judging of ACS Cooperative Shows.
Sunday, July 25, at 1:30 p.m. - Picnic - National Arboretum
Sunday, October 3, 2010 at 1:30 p.m. - Meeting - National Arboretum
Sunday, November 14, 2010 at 1:30 p.m. - Meeting - Potomac Community Center
Sunday, December 12, 2010 at 1;30 p.m. - Holiday Buffet - Green Spring Gardens
Sunday, February 13, 2011 at 1:30 p.m. - Meeting - Potomac Community Center
Sunday, March 13, 2011 at 1:30 p.m. - Meeting - Huntley Meadows Visitor Center, Alexandria, Virginia
Fri/Sat/Sun, April 1 – 3, 2011 - Annual Camellia Show - Brookside Gardens, Wheaton, Maryland
![Betty Sheffield [bettyshe.gif]](bettyshe.jpg)
TheCSPV
offers and opportunity to meet and speak with experienced growers who are
willing to share information on the culture of camellias. The membership
is an assorted group of people ranging from the casual backyard grower,
having one or two plants, to the professional geneticist, growing several
hundred plants. In either case, the atmosphere is friendly and informal
because the focal point is the Camellia.
The meetings are on Sunday afternoons in October, November, December, February, March, April and May, and after a short business meeting, there is a program featuring a speaker of panel discussion - sometimes accompanied by color slides or a film. Also, during the blooming season, there is a Mini Show at the meetings.
The Society publishes a Newsletter containing articles - authored by amateur hobbyists, nurserymen, landscape designers, and professional horticulturists - on camellia culture and news items. Everyone is invited to submit articles that would expand the knowledge on camellia care.
Generally, there is, at least, one major annual show, and depending on the weather, more shows can be offered. At the Annual Picnic there is often an opportunity to acquire new plants for one's collection.
In northern areas, SPRING PLANTING is recommended rather than in the autumn, as is frequently done in milder climates. This allows the newly planted camellias time to get its roots established before encountering the rigors of the winter season. Careful planting is the most important aspect of growing camellias. Select healthy, vigorous plants. Plants 2' to 4' in size, either balled-and-burlapped or container grown (the latter somewhat preferable), are perhaps easiest to get established. Choose a location, if possible, where there is some natural protection in winter from strong winds and the morning sun. Plant in good garden soil to which a generous amount of humus, such as coarse peat, has been added. It is important to avoid deep planting, which may damage or kill the plant. Pack down the soil mix well and, for larger plants which may settle, the root system should be planted a little higher than the original level. Water thoroughly.
Providing good mulch the year around is very important. It helps the soil retain moisture, keeps the summer weeds out, and in winter helps prevent deep freezing of the soil and plant dehydration. Many materials are suitable. These include pine needles, ground bark or pine or hardwood, oak and other leaves (preferably partly rotted), and living ground covers such as myrtle (vinca minor). Cover to a depth of 2 to 4 inches.
New plants should be watered thoroughly once a week during dry spells. Established plants require less watering except in times of prolonged droughts. Sprinkling of the foliage, however, on hot summer evenings is beneficial to plant and flower bud development. Also be certain the plants do not dry out during or cold and dry winters. Spray water on the plants only when the temperature is above freezing.
In good soil fertilizing is not essential, and any applications should be light. Camellia or Azalea fertilizer may be applied at the end of the blooming and followed, if desired, by a second light application in June. Nitrogen fertilizer should not be applied late in the season because this extends the growing period.
Prune to shape leggy plants, to control size, to renew vigor of older plants, or to remove weak and dead branches. Cut back to a leaf or growth bud, to a larger branch, or the main trunk as closely as possible. Paint larger cuts (1/2" or more) with tree dressing. Heavy pruning should be done in the spring before new growth, or in the fall.
Camellias in this [Washington, DC] area have been relatively free from disease and insect pests. Recently Florida Wax Scale, which infests many common trees and shrubs, has become prevalent. For control, spray weekly during June when the young insects are developing. Malathion is effective. For peony scale as one-time spray of the systemic, dimethoate (Cygon), has proven quite effective.
Buds of many varieties of C. japonica, when treated in late summer (about Aug. 20 to Sept. 15), will bloom before cold weather sets in. It takes from 4 to 10 weeks, depending on variety , for buds to respond. Such blooms are often of exceptional quality. Some of the formal doubles and early blooming types, that are not generally satisfactory in this area, respond very well. The growth bud adjacent to the flower bud which is to be treated is removed and a drop of 1% water solution of gibberellic acid is applied at the point where the growth bud has been removed.
Dehydration is a big killer of camellias; however, with proper precautions more sensitive cultivars can endure the winter and give enjoyment to the grower. Depending on how the camellias are grown, there are basically two forms of protection - outside of a greenhouse - that will allow the plants to survive a harsh winter.
If the camellias are planted in the ground, they are best grown 3 to 6 feet from the foundation of a house where the warmth of the house can aid in the protection. Also, by constructing cylinders made of 2" mesh wire as supports for burlap covering around the plant, and filling it with about 6" of dry OAK LEAVES (depending on the size of the plant - about 1/3 of the depth in leaves), the camellias will be partially insulated against the winter winds that cause a burn effect. Some light must reach the upper part of the plant to sustain adequate photosynthesis activity and to avoid condensation and rotting from damp leaves.
If available, DuPont' Company's MICROFOAM thermal blanket (1/4" thick) may be used. Either wrapped around the wire cylinder or supported by at least 3 stakes, and fastened with twine. The top is fastened tightly shut with clothespins. This protection does not rely on leaves within the enclosure, as it relies on heat from the ground. MICROFOAM allows light and some moisture to penetrate. Leaves may be piled around the outside perimeter 4 to 6" high and out about 1 foot or more. The enclosure is put on in November (in Zone 6) and removed in March, depending upon the weather. We, in Maryland, USA, have been using Microfoam for 20 years and find it is an< excellent protection for Camellias. Some of the plants may have blooms on them. The top of the cylinder is opened for several days before the Microfoam is removed completely. ; We recommend using Microfoam for the first year or two until the roots get established, on the cold hardy camellias. For growers wishing to raise more tender commercial varieities, Microfoam is put on every year. This is a great way to protect the buds and get nice blooms. If the camellias are grown in container, simply lay the plants on their sides and cover with microfoam which acts as a blanket. A sheet of microfoam will be more effective if it is sandwiched between two sheets of 4 mil clear plastic. All edges of the "blanket" are weighted down with bricks, etc., to seal in moisture and to provide insulation. Plants should be covered before any hard freezes and uncovered in the spring. The most tender of cultivars have successfully endured the winter using this method. Furthermore, do not be surprised to find blooms on the plants when the covering is removed.
This site was developed by Charles K. Fairchild
Affiliated with:
American Camellia Society
100 Massee Lane
Fort Valley, GA 31030